In tribute to Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972), the couturier of couturiers, the Palais Galliera presents at the Bourdelle Museum: Balenciaga, the black work resonating with the black sounds of a sewing alchemist. From the large plaster hall to the contemporary extension of Portzamparc, through the workshops of Bourdelle, the couturier's pieces establish a sharp, black-and-white dialogue with this great master of sculpture at the turn of the 20th century.
Black, the irrigation of Balenciaga drawing the roots of his work in the folklore and traditional Spain of his childhood. (1957), tunic (1955), its famous dress-bag (1957), black, the taste of the purse of this technician out of norms with its lines barrel (1947) , The monastic inspirations of the master of which Dior said: "The garment was his religion".
This first part of the exhibition "silhouette & volumes" is followed by "blacks & lights" and "blacks and colors". For Balenciaga, black, more than a color or even a non-color, is a vibrant matter, alternately opaque or transparent, matt or brilliant, all in play of light which owes as much to the sumptuousness of the fabrics as to The apparent simplicity of its cuts. A lace highlight, an embroidery composition, a guipure, a thick silk velvet, and it is a skirt, a bolero, a mantilla, a cape reinvented in a mantle, a cloak cut in pilgrim ... Here, Daywear, suit, jacket ... and there evening sets, also cocktail dresses lined in silk taffeta, bordered with fringes, adorned with satin ribbons, jet beads, sequins ... and Accessories, black of course ... Black conjugated through a hundred pieces from the Galliera fonds and the archives of the Balenciaga House.